Italian fare; Maryland Soul

Cort and Chelsea Meinelschmidt at their new Veva’s on Potomac restaurant downtown.

A quick turnover from Bulls & Bears to Veva’s on Potomac gives downtown Hagerstown a restaurant with a unique identity

By April and Andrew Bartel 

Everyone loves a nice Italian dinner. Americans practically claim pizza and spaghetti as our own. Now, a new restaurant in downtown Hagerstown is offering its unique interpretation of classic Italian fare, infused with a distinct Maryland soul.

Chicken Chesapeake Risotto chicken breast atop creamy risotto with crab and Old Bay cream sauce. 

Veva’s on Potomac, located at 38 South Potomac Street—the former home of Bulls & Bears—recently emerged under new ownership, sporting a fresh menu and vision while preserving much of what fans loved about the original. 

Cort and Chelsea Meinelschmidt, already familiar faces in the local scene, took ownership of Bulls & Bears, rechristening Veva’s after Chelsea’s grandmother. Owners of Meinelschmidt Distillery, situated just across the way, made the ambitious leap from distillers to restauranteurs. The couple reopened swiftly, within days. 

“The quick transition has been a little bit painful, but we wanted to ensure the staff didn’t have to get laid off or worry about their jobs while we got everything fixed up,” Cort Meinelschmidt says. The process kept most of the previous front-of-house team intact, preserving the sense of community that patrons had come to appreciate. 

At the culinary helm is new executive chef Larry Messenger, who, alongside a mostly familiar kitchen crew, has been integral in shaping Veva’s unique identity—Maryland soul, Italian spin. This creative direction offers diners comfortingly familiar dishes elevated by local ingredients, imaginative culinary techniques, and thoughtful presentations. 

Standout dishes include a hearty smoked cheese-stuffed meatball, pistachio crusted salmon, and house-made pasta drenched in rich vodka Bolognese sauce. Another customer favorite, Chicken Chesapeake risotto, gives a nod to Maryland’s iconic flavors. 

Additionally, Veva’s showcases an evolving menu that includes daily “Carnivore du Jour” specials highlighting steaks sourced from Hidden Creek Pastures Farms like T-bones, porterhouses, and tender filet steaks as well as less common cuts like skirt steak, tri-tip, or brisket among others, in appreciation of the whole animal. 

One favorite is their Ossobuco, a traditional Italian dish featuring slow-braised veal shanks simmered with vegetables and white wine. Its indulgent marrow center, aptly described as “meat butter,” is usually lavished over toast.
Pasta Primavera, with a rotating array of seasonal vegetables, reflects Veva’s dedication to using fresh, local products whenever possible. 

For a more laid-back dining experience, Veva’s offers a range of sandwiches, including a juicy Italian beef hoagie—a savory creation paired with giardiniera and a side of au jus. The menu retains beloved dishes from the former establishment, such as the inventive Cajun Elvis burger, lamb lollipops, crab dip, and broiled crab cakes. 

Community engagement and support of local agriculture are central to Veva’s identity. The Meinelschmidts embrace locally-sourced ingredients in every facet of the meal, just as their distillery uses grains harvested in Clear Springs and Keedysville.  

Cort Meinelschmidt says, “We want to make sure that when you’re coming downtown, you’re getting high-quality food, great cocktails, and everything is locally sourced.” 

Veva’s connection to Meinelschmidt Distillery offers diners a distinctive two-part experience. If tables at Veva’s are fully booked, guests are encouraged to visit the distillery across the hall to enjoy a carefully crafted cocktail. Once the table is ready, staff members personally inform patrons, who may bring their drinks along. An appetizer menu, designed to complement distillery beverages, can also be ordered directly
from Veva’s. 

This integration illustrates Cort and Chelsea’s vision for a cohesive downtown atmosphere: “Chelsea and I really want to help downtown grow. This was just a natural progression.” 

May marks an exciting milestone, with Veva’s set to unveil a new on-site sports bar, aptly named The Dugout, formerly known as The Bullpen. Patrons can anticipate classic pub fare, including burgers, wings, pizzas, and chili fries. Two entrances—one through Veva’s main entrance and another via the second-floor parking deck—offer convenient accessibility.  

The restaurant is also prepared to host a range of events with diverse spaces, from its mezzanine to the Potomac Walk, or even the adjacent distillery for larger groups.  

Born and raised in Hagerstown, Cort Meinelschmidt’s commitment to the community extends beyond business. Following his time in the Navy and return to Hagerstown, he has dedicated himself to local revitalization efforts. This dedication was recognized when Meinelschmidt Distillery earned top honors as the Washington County Chamber of Commerce’s Small Business of the Year. Further accolades include international recognition for their whiskey at the Tokyo International Spirits Competition and potential export opportunities with Japan. 

Veva’s pedigree puts it on track to be more than a restaurant, but an inspired fusion of flavors thoughtfully delivered by local entrepreneurs who are deeply invested in building a vibrant community. 

Whether you’re drawn by the promise of classic dishes or intrigued by its local charm, Veva’s invites you to savor a memorable dining experience in the heart of Hagerstown. 

Orange Sesame Hanger Steak with caramelized onions and creamy horseradish mashed potatoes, paired with sautéed zucchini, squash, and red onions.