A Taste of Puerto Rico
Sofrito owners Jeovanni and Yahaira Diaz.
On East Washington Street, Sofrito brings the heart of Old San Juan to downtown Hagerstown
By April Bartel
If the scent of garlic, peppers, and cilantro wafting through the doors of 10 East Washington Street doesn’t catch your attention, the warmth inside surely will. Owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Jeovanni and Yahaira Diaz, this cozy, colorful restaurant has quickly become a destination for those seeking genuine Puerto Rican cuisine—and more importantly, a taste of home.
A Sofrito specialty is the visually arresting presentation Chuleta KanKan.
“We wanted to bring something new to the city, something vibrant,” says Jeovanni, whose enthusiasm for food and hospitality shines through every detail of the space. Open since August 2024, Sofrito is celebrating the start of its second year of serving soulful, scratch-made Puerto Rican fare in one of Hagerstown’s oldest downtown buildings.
While Jeovanni was born in El Salvador, Yahaira is an island native with deep roots there. What they share are deep personal and culinary ties to the island. Jeovanni lived in Puerto Rico for nearly two decades before meeting Yahaira in Philadelphia. The couple moved to Hagerstown about 10 years ago, eventually seizing the opportunity to purchase and restore the historic property that now houses Sofrito. For them, it wasn’t just about opening a restaurant, it was about creating a gathering place.
“When customers come in, we want them to feel at home,” says Jeovanni. “Like you’re at your grandmother’s table.”
That sentiment is woven into the very DNA of the restaurant, starting with the menu. Many of Sofrito’s recipes come from Yahaira’s grandmother, who lived to be 92 in the mountainous town of Corozal. “She would start cooking at six in the morning and expect all the kids and grandkids to come and eat,” Jeovanni recalls. “Rice, beans, mofongo. It was like walking into a restaurant, anytime of day.”
At Sofrito, that legacy lives on in dishes like the signature mofongo—a hearty, volcano-shaped mound of seasoned green plantains, mashed by hand in a traditional wooden pilón and studded with crispy pork.
“We brought that pilón from Puerto Rico,” Jeovanni says proudly. “If you want to make the dish right, it’s not something you can pre-make. Each order is made fresh.”
Guests can top their mofongo with marinated chicken, beef, or shrimp and a choice of sauces, from garlicky butter to rich tomato criollo and Jeovanni’s favorite, a decadent cheese sauce.
Other menu favorites include rice and beans with either red or black beans, and arroz con gandules, a staple of Puerto Rican celebrations. Sofrito’s Chuleta KanKan is another standout. It is a visually arresting presentation featuring a huge club-shaped pork chop with crackling skin, fried to golden perfection and served with tostones.
“It’s a showstopper,” says Jeovanni. “We probably sell more than 40 of them a week. Once one goes out to the dining room, other tables see it and want it, too.”
Like many dishes on the menu, these entrees are flavored with sofrito, the restaurant’s namesake and the soul of Puerto Rican cooking. Their house-made blend includes garlic, onions, sweet peppers, cilantro, and tomato sautéed into a fragrant base that enriches nearly every meal.
“At home, even if you’re just frying an egg, you put sofrito on it,” Jeovanni laughs. “It takes the flavor to another level.”
That devotion to flavor and authenticity extends to every corner of the menu. Empanadas are filled with seasoned meats and wrapped in dough made from scratch. Bolitas de yuca are crisp on the outside with a tender beef-filled center. And the alcapurrias—fritters made from green plantain and taro root—are a beloved street food delicacy. Dollops of creamy, garlicky mayo-ketchup are a ubiquitous Puerto Rican condiment.
Even desserts come with a story. Sofrito partners with BoriDelicias, a Puerto Rican bakery in Chambersburg, to offer luscious tres leches cake and silky flan de queso.
“Everything is fresh. We don’t do anything pre-made,” says Jeovanni. Meat is also sourced from local favorite, Hoffman’s Quality Meats, and produce comes from area farms.
“It’s important for us to use local products wherever we can,” Jeovanni says.
The space itself is a celebration of island heritage layered over historic charm. Murals of Puerto Rican seaside villages and iconic forts adorn the walls, while original hardwood floors, a brick fireplace, and textured wood finishes offer a counterpoint of cultures that are both refined and vibrant. The upstairs dining room seats 49, with another 70 downstairs, including quiet nooks perfect for intimate meals or lively gatherings.
That family-friendly atmosphere is no accident. “We’ve had people come from all over—Virginia, Pennsylvania, even New York—to meet family here,” says Jeovanni. “It’s like a mini reunion. We were hoping for that kind of connection, but we were surprised by how fast it started happening.”
The Sofrito dining room displays the flag of Puerto Rico.
For the Diazes, this is a true family business. Their three children, ranging in age from 13 to 22, are learning the ins and outs of restaurant life—from front-of-house service to kitchen prep and cleaning.
Music is part of that cultural connection. From the carefully curated Latin playlist to live salsa singers who perform monthly, the vibe at Sofrito is festive without being overwhelming. Guests often comment on the welcoming ambiance as much as the food.
And the details matter. Each dish is finished with a tiny Puerto Rican flag. Fruity piña coladas, crisp Medalla beer, and mojitos round out the experience.
“It’s not just a meal, it’s a taste of the island, a piece of our hearts,” says Jeovanni.
As the restaurant prepares to launch its own jarred sofrito sauce this fall, the Diazes are excited about what’s next. But at the core, their mission remains simple: “We just want people to come, enjoy, and feel like part of the family.”
Sofrito isn’t just about food. It’s a love letter to heritage that joyfully welcomes everyone to the table.