The Great Steak Debate
Battle of the Cheesesteaks winner Grab, Smash & Go.
The first Battle of the Cheesesteaks in downtown Hagerstown initiated the debate about who really has the best
By April Bartel
Battle of the Cheesesteaks organizer Jamie Lawrence.
On May 16, downtown Hagerstown smelled like sizzling beef, toasted rolls, and civic pride. The occasion was the first Battle of the Cheesesteaks, sponsored by Hamilton Nissan and hosted by One Room Media with support from Main Street Hagerstown. The event sold out its 350 tasting and voting tickets, then drew another 400 to 500 people who showed up just to be part of the fun.
For a town that has long claimed the steamer sandwich as its own, the sudden frenzy over steak and cheese may seem unexpected. But anyone who has watched Jamie Lawrence of One Room Media take a bite, squeeze a roll, flick a crust, and offer his entertaining take on a local sandwich knows this delicious little rivalry has been building for months.
Lawrence, a Hagerstown native, laughs at how the whole thing started. “My favorite thing to eat is cheesesteaks,” he says, adding that he began visiting local restaurants almost as a joke. “I’m still kind of shocked that people would like watching me eat.”
What began as short, good-natured food videos quickly became a community conversation. Restaurants started promoting their versions. Viewers started comparing notes. Suddenly, the sandwich that “really has no ties to Hagerstown,” as Lawrence puts it, had become a local obsession.
The Battle of the Cheesesteaks made it official. Grab Smash & Go took first place, followed by The Pita King and Seasonz.
Brittany Arizmendi, director of community engagement for Main Street Hagerstown, says the event fit naturally into downtown’s growing food culture. Last year’s Battle of the Burgers proved that people were eager for playful, food-centered events. The cheesesteak battle added another layer.
“Downtown Hagerstown has a very diverse culinary scene,” she says, pointing to Mexican, soul food, African, Jamaican, Puerto Rican, Thai, Italian-inspired and traditional American restaurants within just a few blocks. Add cheesesteaks to the list, and it becomes one more reason to wander, sample, and stay awhile.
Battle of the Cheesesteaks runner-up Pita King.
Of course, depending on whom you ask, a cheesesteak is not always the same as a steak and cheese.
The Battle of the Cheesesteaks attracted hundreds of visitors downtown.
In Philadelphia, the traditional version is stripped down and serious: shaved ribeye, fried onions, a proper roll, and cheese, usually Cheez Whiz, provolone, or Cooper sharp. Around here, the Maryland-style steak and cheese is more likely to arrive dressed up with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, or even mushrooms and peppers.
Lawrence enjoys both versions but admits that his personal favorite leans local. “I’m more like a Maryland-style one and less of a Philly,” he says.
Kalim Johnson, co-owner of Juniper Café with Tamara Johnson, brings the Philadelphia perspective. He grew up there, where the cheesesteak is not a novelty but part of neighborhood life. “My uncle literally used to call me ‘cheesesteak’ because I always had a cheesesteak in my hand,” he says.
The Battle of the Cheesesteaks trophy featured a 3D printed pig.
At Juniper, Johnson goes back to what he considers the foundation: shaved ribeye, fried onions, cheese, and a traditional Philadelphia roll. He carries both Amoroso’s and Liscio’s rolls and uses Cooper sharp and provolone.
“The difference is going to be the seasoning blend that I use on the actual meat,” he says. “When you use the actual shaved ribeye, you have to be responsible for getting a flavor to it.”
That attention has made Juniper’s cheesesteak the café’s champion product, accounting for roughly 60 percent of revenue. The menu also plays with variations, including crab and shrimp cheesesteaks with pepper jack and Old Bay, jerk chicken cheesesteaks and firecracker chicken cheesesteaks with habanero cheddar and hot pepper relish.
Johnson sees the sandwich as a bridge between places and people. Big cities, he says, are made up of small communities, each known for something. In Hagerstown, he is finding his own pocket. “We’re a small business trying to become a staple in a small town,” he says.
For Chuck and Tina Triesh of Tucker’s Pucker with Stoner Dogs Subs and Sammies food truck, the best sandwich begins with two things: superlative meat and bread.
“Honestly, first and foremost, it’s the meat that you use,” Tina says. “But second, it’s the bun.”
Their rolls come from Burkholders Donuts & More in Sharpsburg, baked fresh for the business. The meat is shaved ribeye. The cheese is Cooper sharp, a detail that reflects both changing trends and Chuck’s family ties to Philadelphia.
“You don’t need to go overboard,” Chuck says. “You just need some basic TLC.”
That care has paid off. Tuckers Pucker has been named among the top three cheesesteaks in The Journal’s Best of the Best People’s Choice awards for the past two years. The business started as a lemonade stand with a hand squeezer and about five flavors, then grew into hot dogs, subs, and sandwiches, each bite jazzed up with a unique personality.
Juniper Cafe is becoming a Hagerstown favorite.
For all the debate over rolls, cheese, and toppings, the best part may be that there is no single right answer. A great steak and cheese should be juicy but not soggy, generous but balanced, seasoned well and tucked into bread sturdy enough to hold the whole glorious mess together. It should taste like somebody cared.
That may be why the craze caught on. Lawrence’s videos are not really about declaring one winner. They are about giving people a reason to try the little places they might have driven past, to cheer for hometown cooks and to talk with surprising passion about what’s for lunch.
The competition proved that Hagerstown is hungry for more of those moments. Lawrence says future food battles are already in the works, with chicken wings likely next. Main Street Hagerstown is also continuing its food-friendly events, including Battle of the Burgers’ round two on September 12th and a Cookie Crawl in December.
Until then, the burgeoning “steak and cheese trail” is open. Start downtown. Follow the aroma. Order it dressed the way you please. Then take a bite and join the debate.
A Couple Others We Like
Although these two shops weren’t part of the Battle of the Cheesesteaks, local cheesesteak aficionados Danny Pappareilla, owner of Hagerstown Eats, and Chuck Boteler say they are worthy of a try.
MATEO’S, Waynesboro
Do a search of Mateo’s Waynesboro and you’ll find references to a Mexican restaurant. While they serve great Mexican food, we really love the cheesesteak offerings there. Get the Wagyu beef steak, fresh cut fries, and shake special on a weekend for $20. Plenty of fillings, soft bread and a unique well-seasoned beef experience. Worth the short drive.
Original ROCKY’S, Cascade
If you like a lot of food and are a volume eater, the Original Rocky’s Pizza and Creative Kitchen may be your best choice. While the beef used isn’t the fresh shaved ribeye or Wagyu, Rocky’s more than makes up for it by serving one of the biggest cheesesteaks in the area. Ever heard of the Cooper Steakanator? Ask about it.