Coal Mining’s Melody

Deep in the former Phillips-Sprague Mine in Beckley, West Virginia. 

By Nancy Luse

In a deep baritone voice, Don Barrett starts singing the classic American blues song “Working in the Coal Mine.” That would seem out of place if it weren’t for the fact that Barrett is a guide at the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine. Before long, almost everyone on board the authentic rail car he is guiding joins in as they descend 1,500 feet into the mine.

This was originally the Phillips-Sprague Mine, which opened in 1889 and produced coal as a commercial venture until the seam  was depleted in 1953. The city of Beckley, West Virginia, bought the mine and an adjoining 27 acres and converted it into today’s tourist destination, which is open daily from early April to early November. 

The guides are former miners eager to share first-hand stories of their experiences as well as the history and nuts and bolts of mining coal. In the case of Barrett, there’s the added musical component as he now has launched into Tennessee Ernie Ford’s “Sixteen Tons.” 

Music is ingrained in Beckley, the birthplace of Little Jimmy Dickens, country singer and fixture at the Grand Ole Opry, as well as legendary R&B singer-songwriter Bill Withers, who produced hits like Lean on Me and Ain’t No Sunshine. 

Just as ingrained in the folks of this region is coal itself. “Most people in West Virginia have a connection to coal,” says Leslie Baker, director of operations for the exhibition mine and accompanying youth museum. “[The mine] is the hub of the community and serves as a renewed sense of pride in their heritage.” 

Early visitors wanted more. “They wondered, what was the life of a miner like?” Baker says. So the city built a typical coal town with a church, school, superintendent’s house, houses used by miners and their families and a store. 

The buildings are authentic, dismantled in other coal mining towns and rebuilt in Beckley. The mine tour lasts about a half hour but save a couple of hours to explore the village. 

It’s also worthwhile checking out the rest of the area. Beckley is near the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, which offers hiking, rafting and climbing. Camping is available at Little Beaver State Park, with rustic cabins beckoning at Cabins at Pine Haven, which also features luxury treehouses. For a full resort stay there’s The Resort at Glade Springs. 

For shopping, Tamarack Marketplace features local arts, crafts and music. A resident glass blower is joined by more than 2,800 juried artists and artisans representing the state’s 55 counties. The cafe is known for fried green tomato sandwiches and chicken pot pie. Not sure if there are any songs about that.